Products and services
We carry a wide range of products to suit a variety of
budgets and tastes, from used to fine furniture,
including refinished and painted finishes.
To refinish, or NOT to refinish ....
that is the Question!
Lisa's secret tips on how to clean up a piece
that you are sure needs refinishing.
For under $20
my secret is out
I always do this first before I send anything out to get redone.
If the piece has most or all of the finish in tact but it is scratched , has water rings or is just plain filthy, 99% of the time it can be saved and just de-greased.
Go to your local hardware store and buy a hand de-greaser. It comes in a gel form with pumice or no pumice. Its the stuff that you use to clean your hands after working on a car.
"Canadian tire Moto master" is the cheapest $1.99 or the auto parts store.
"Zep" cherry hand cleaner works very nicely. I didn't like the orange one the citrus leaves it sticky for some reason.
Most people smoked and fried for 50 years and the piece is full of grease and dirt. Clean this off before deciding whether or not to go the expensive refinishing phase.
You need a pad of super fine steel wool. (The kind you can wipe your face with.) If you can't find the really soft one then buy the pumice hand cleaner it will work almost as fast with that and just a cloth.
Lather it on, as if you got it for free and rub in the direction of the grain of the wood, not perpendicular to it, remember your geometry. You can use some pressure but don't do it too long or too hard, you don't want to remove the finish, just the surface grease and grime.
Chair arms and tops of dining room chairs or edges of furniture, that an old person has used as a "cane" sometimes had such a build up of dirt that the acid from their hands will have eaten through the finish , so when the dirt is removed there is no finish left on this area.
Unfortunately this is now referred to as " the patina". You can touch it up , but it will never look like the rest of the chair's finish.
Do small areas do not let the de-greaser sit on the piece overnight. If you are getting tired clean up the area you started. Everything will eat the finish off a piece of wood if you let it soak.
Do not use Murphy's Oil soap!! sorry Murphy This stuff is to be used for basket ball floors only! It will eat the finish off everything. I tried it , it did it!
Water and wood is Wrong!
IF YOU NOTICE IN THE COMMERCIAL THE OLD LADY'S SPONGE ISN'T EVEN WET!
Water rings are terrible, they are the calcium deposits left behind after the water has been left on the surface too long and soaked in. The particles of water are caught between the particles of the varnish, very microscopic.
So we want to soak them out of the finish and coax them out by soaking and rubbing. Water rings require some soaking and a bit of pressure, use the hand cleaner to soak it for about 2- 3 minutes don't let it dry on there.
Keep it wet rub it and check your progress, don't just rub the "crap'' out of it, but you don't have to baby it either.
Next wipe off the dirty goo from the piece and dry with a paper towel or soft rag. The pumice one will leave little bits of sand, just brush them off as they dry. Repeat if it still has a Grey or black areas where the dirt was built up.
If the really old piece has a shellac finish, one or two light passes is enough. the shellac finish will disolve almost immediately.These pieces are better left to a professional.
Most scratches should be concealed but deep scratches will never cover over with this method but they are less noticeable.
Wear rubber gloves, Even though it is hand cleaner the dirt is so strong the hand cleaner won't always clean up your hands after. Especially if you have a French manicure. ;)
Any extra deep gouges or scratches that are still not the right colour can be touched up with a "Minwax" Furniture touch up stain pen. $8.99 at Home depot or Home hardware.
Just depress the nib and the stain flows, draw in the scratch, then wipe off the extra. I've coloured in large spots with this technique.
Then I use pledge or any spray wax but not with lemon, it makes to old wax streak because of the citrus. The piece should look 100 times better.
Pictures to come.
All old dressers have raw wooden drawer sides which ride on another piecce of raw wood.
When the original wax dries out, the drawers begin to "saw a trench" in the guide, making the drawer almost impossible to open.
Sometimes the wooden guides inside have been lost or become unglued.
Remove the drawer and check for any loose parts. Nail, screw or glue down back into place anything that was missing or loose. A good place to find make shift guides is the scrap box at Home depot or Rona where they cut wood to length, the scraps are free.They just give them to you.
Hammer in one
smooth thumb tack in the "trench" to prevent the wood from sawing into itself any further, close to the front of the dresser.( about a 1/2 an inch in ) Trenching will cause veneered furntiure pieces to chip along the bottom of the drawer and a solid piece will just not close properly.
Next, rub floor paste wax from the can onto the bottoms of the drawer side glide and inside the chest on the guide areas of the body of the chest
.( Home depot, Home hardware both carry paste wax) You can use a candle or a bar of soap in a pinch but nothing does the job like the paste wax.
Put on a lot, since the wood will drink it up on its first application because the wood is so dry.
The drawers should slide so easily, that you should be able to blow them closed. ha ha
If you saw an ad for any item on Craig's List or Kijiji , and I forgot to mark it down or the price is lower in the shop, the lowest price is always honored even though I may not have changed it. Just mention the ad, there is so much inventory,
I don't remember every thing I have on sale, all the time however "Typing errors" are not considered to be a sale price.
Price tags go missing, things get shuffled.
We are just a "mom and pop shop" doing our best.
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